With the first drop of May, we, on the HODINKEE Vintage Team, continue to focus on curating a collection of what could be your next summer watch, the watch of the summer you could say. This week, we're going for a dual purpose in the selection. With Mother's Day around the corner, we thought it'd be great to offer some options that lean more toward the smaller wrist crowd than normal.
A 1960s Heuer Carrera "45" works just as well as a man's best friend, a summer companion at the race track or, more realistically,replicas relojes at the bar (celebrating Cinco De Mayo with a margarita?) as it does on a smaller wrist of, maybe, a mother in your life. The wrist shots when viewed side by side are really stunning to look at. The same goes for a vintage glossy dialed Submariner or the interesting Omega with Breguet style numerals we have in this selection.
Check out all the watches in this week's vintage drop here, and read on for a bit more on one watch chosen by each of the members of our team.
1970s Cartier Tank 'Jumbo' Automatique
While this century-old watch design remains revered, the biggest conundrum we hear about vintage Cartier Tanks regards their smaller size by modern standards. Et voila, your prayers have been answered, and here we present you this with a fantastic "Jumbo" Tank model.
Certainly a rare breed, this Tank is truly big and beautiful. It measures approximately 28mm in width and 34.5mm in height (8.3mm thickness) compared to the classic model from the same era, which measures around 24mm in width and 27mm in height (7mm thickness). What I find most successful with this watch is that the proportions of the classic Tank design are not lost in translation. I don't want to sound like a watch curmudgeon, but what I often find problematic with making a larger version of a classic is that the proportions of the original beauty are lost by ignoring what made it great in the first place. I also understand that when you make the case and dial bigger, we inherently run into these issues. The case becomes too bulky on the wrist, losing the perfect sleekness of the original. Or the dial elements become bigger and bolder to fill the space, which can throw off the balance not only on the dial itself but also for the entire watch. And for this reason, more often than not, the newer and larger executions don't feel quite right, especially if you love the original.
Here's why this "Jumbo" Tank Automatique shines and exemplifies Cartier's commitment to the original design as well as its openness to change and innovation. The brand has been able to retain the same featured design elements: The 18k gold brancard case with the same soft roundness at the corners, the bold black Roman numerals, the black radial minute track, the blue sapphire cabochon crown, and the "Cartier" name in script with a "Paris" signature on the dial as finishing touches. The proportions are so well-maintained on this watch that there's none of that awkwardness I described above. Also, this watch is fitted with a self-winding movement, which is an additional feature that we don't see too often with vintage Tanks. The watch is from the 1970s, which makes it classically vintage. However, it also looks and feels just as fresh as any modern Tank out there.
Mother's Day is right around the corner, and this oversized Tank would set her apart from the crowd. I always love a classic piece with a twist that adds a stylistic point of view of the wearer. Paired with our equally fresh Sedona Strap in Green, it will make everyone around her green (and gold) with envy. Plus, how awesome would it be to be able to say later, "I borrowed it from my mom, isn't she so chic?" Make it hers right here.
1965 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 With Glossy Dial
When Rolex debuted the legendary Submariner in 1953, the dials were mostly glossy, and the brand would continue this trend until around 1966. Glossy dial Subs are special, and once you stare into the dial of a nice one, you can understand why. Oftentimes, these dials can get worn and lose the glossiness over the years; those can still look nice,replica de relojes de alta gama but when they stay shiny like a black mirror, it's truly spectacular. It's amazing how this Sub that's 56 years old looks so contemporary, and from afar, one might not necessarily know this is vintage. It takes a seasoned collector to pick up on the little characteristics that make this what it is. From the nicely aged lume plots to the gilt accents on the dial all the way to the well-preserved bezel – this is really something. Sometimes it's hard to grasp the idea of a glossy dial versus a matte one, but when you put them side-by-side, the difference is clear.
The watch we have here today is in overall great and honest condition and is ready for a new wrist to inhabit. The variation of this specific watch comes in toward the end of the glossy dial Submariner era with an open chapter ring and tritium lume. The bezel on this example is a very rare "thin 40" variation – this is referring to the "40" on the bezel being taller and thinner when compared to other bezel inserts of the era. In addition to being a seldom-seen insert, the bezel itself has aged to a lovely dark grey color that's either darker or lighter – it can even look a bit blue – depending on the lighting. Now going from the bezel to bracelet, Submariners of this era come on a rivet folded Oyster bracelet. These bracelets are light and super comfortable and finish off the overall vintage look and feel with perfect aplomb.
Submariners like this one reinforce my love for the model. Check out all the details over here.
1969 Hamilton Chrono-Matic Ref. 11002-3
Vintage watches seem to bunch up and cross the HODINKEE desk in packs. For months, we won't come across a great Breitling to list, for example, until we do, and all of the sudden the flood gates open up. Next thing we know, there are ten Navitimers around here – again, this is an example. This phenomenon has happened recently with caliber 11 watches in a very real way. So much so, I think I could tell the story of the "Chronomatic Consortium" to a random passerby on the street if they would let me, and I wouldn't have it any other way.
Beyond caliber 11-powered watches, Hamilton Chrono-Matics have recently had a nice little run in the HODINKEE Shop. After this week, we'll have offered each of Hamilton's initial Chrono-Matic options in the last few months with the Fontainebleau ref. 11001-3, slate blue dial ref. 11002-3, and now this "panda" dial ref. 11002-3. We're taking you right back to 1969 in the HODINKEE Vintage Shop.
No shade to the Fontainebleau or the blue dial, but this is my favorite of the bunch hands down. Most of the caliber 11 watches are in funky case shapes as brands of the era leaned into the futuristic capability of having a self-winding chronograph on your wrist. I guess the customer who was buying these watches in the early 1970s wanted to be on the cutting edge. What I love about Hamilton's take on the movement with the ref. 11002-3 is how classic it is, a real outlier in this group. Especially with the panda motif dial, the watch calls back to Hamilton's chronographs of the 1960s rather than trying to look forward like so many caliber 11 watches did. I can see a direct through-line from Hamilton's Valjoux-powered, manually wound ref. 7723 chronos to this Chrono-Matic. And that lineage really speaks to me.
This Hamilton Chrono-Matic checks in at a comfy 36mm case diameter, taken up mostly by the watch's dial,replicas panerai which gives it some extra wrist presence. This diameter is right in the comfort zone where it can look at home on wrists of all sizes. Plus, after all, what mother doesn't love a nice panda?
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