What happens when a world-renowned independent watchmaker known for creating watches with bold case designs and incredibly intricate dials decides to create a brand for the masses meant to be easily worn day in and day out? The answer is S.U.F Helsinki. Created by Stepan Sarpaneva, S.U.F Helsinki (short for SarpanevaUhrenFabrik) represents a major departure in terms of both style and price from Stepan Sarpaneva’s eponymous brand. Whereas Sarpaneva watches feature extensive hand-finishing and a nouveau-Gothic design language, watches under the S.U.F moniker, while still assembled in the same workshop, are typically much simpler and design, but all evoke the love of Sarpaneva’s Finnish homeland. In the case of the S.U.F Helsinki 180, reviewed here, the idea was to craft a classic field watch that was distinctly Finnish in its interpretation of the form. With a field watch, how much can you really do to create a watch that’s fresh and interesting within the austere constraints of the...